donderdag 8 september 2011

P&O Week 11-12-13 and 15 April

It is not often that I am away from home so often in one week time but I can safely say it was worth it. Especially since the weather was very kind.
I will not bore you with all the different ideas I had for trips during the first week of the Easter holiday period but I can say that there were a lot. Eventually I decided to stick with what I knew best.
It all began 2-3 weeks ago by booking a mini cruise with P&O. For just £200 I got a return crossing in a premier outside cabin with 2 bunks next to eachother, all my meals and transfer to York and back, not too bad I must say. Then began the wait for the day of departure, the most annoying thing about any trip Click the image to open in full size. .

Finally that day came and I left for Zeebrugge at about 16.45, living only 10 minutes from the terminal is very convenient indeed. But one can be lured into a false sense of 'oh, I have enough time'. That was confirmed upon arrival at 17.00 where I found out I was the last of the foot passengers to check in. But this means no queue at check in and only a very short time before boarding. Upon receiving my boarding cards I was surprised to see that I had been allocated a cabin on deck 6 or blue deck. This was rather surprising as all premier cabins are on green deck. I thought that perhaps they had made a mistake but it made me curious about what kind of cabin I was going to spend 2 nights in.

Boarding began on time and there were quite a few foot passengers. I have always wondered why there is no luggage check on this route, the only thing you need to show is your passport and boarding card. Once past customs everyone went down the walkway and onto the ship. I went up one flight of stairs and headed to the person responsible for the distribution of cabin keys on blue deck.
"All the way to the front to the left", he said, and I made my way down the narrow corridor. I had some difficulty finding my cabin. And after going up and down the corridor twice, I turned right at the end and found my cabin. It was then that I realised that I had been given one of four cabins with a bow view. A very pleasant surprise and a first for me. Despite having used this route perhaps 10 times before I had never been given this type of cabin. I opened the door using the almost ancient (it still had North Sea Ferries written on it) traditional key, much easier than those cards that don't seem to work properly. To my amazement I found a double bed and a single bed with normal sheets, not the comfy but small P&O ferries blanket. The cabin, number 1118, had clearly been a Club Class cabin in its previous life. I remember reading about it somewhere on the BFE forum. The beds were comfy and the cabin was clean but perhaps a bit on the dusty side. There was a disused (empty Click the image to open in full size. ) fridge in the cabinet in the corner and there would have been a TV on top of this cabinet. Next to the bathroom door was a device that hung on the wall and that could be turned on. It was a kind of table which could be lifted into place, my guess is that it must have been something to put your breakfast on in the morning (I really don't have a clue) or perhaps to dry your towels.

The bathroom was bigger than I was used to and so was the shower but the bathroom was showing its age, especially the sink. I can say that the water pressure was phenomenal and it was up to the typical P&O power shower standard. The shower head did leak a bit and the faucet was a bit worn out but all in all it was in good nick. There was an abundance of complimentary soaps in the bathroom. Another thing was also in abundant supply, pillows Click the image to open in full size., 5 to be precise. For the rest the cabins had the usual bits and bobs you expect as can be seen below. The space in front the window was large enough to sit in (if you are young and agile, won't see me doing stuff like that in a few years time Click the image to open in full size.) and I did so regularly, especially during the night. Below the window there was a sign reminding passengers to keep the curtains shut during the night when the light in their cabin is lit.

Click the image to open in full size.
Cabin 1118 offers a bow view

After leaving everything in my cabin I headed outside and realised that there were 2 buses of school kids onboard (276 kind to be exact). They were quite loud at times but weren't really bothering anyone. After taking pictures outside I went back in and reserved my table at Langan's Brasserie for the evening. The person taking reservation was the typical Filipino crewmember that we know and love. He was kind, attentive and polite and would always greet you if you crossed his path Click the image to open in full size. .

After this I went back out again to enjoy the weather which was glorious. Loading these ships is always fascinating and there were quite a few people on deck watching the developments on the pontoon below us. I admire the people who drive those tugmasters, it takes a lot of skill especially those loading the European Trader berthed behind us. It was clear that we were going to be late which is normal on this route but the scheduele allows this. Finally at around 19.15 the last of the freight was onboard and the Bruges was ready to leave the berth. The captain came on the PA apologizing for the delay due to loading. It was clear the car deck was completely full. The weather forecasted was a WSW'erly Force 4-5 to start with increasing to a NW'erly Force 5-7 with moderate seas. I was glad that there was at least some wind and from the right direction too, just not enough Click the image to open in full size. .

We left the berth and I noticed the particularly relaxed looking guy at the winch controls, not wearing his helmet and smoking a cigarette Click the image to open in full size. . Once we had swung round we headed towards the North Sea.

A collection of pictures from the first day can be found below.
Click the image to open in full size. Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size. Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size. Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size. Click the image to open in full size.

When looking at the builders plate you realise that these ships are as old as the Dover and Calais.

Once we were well on our way I went back to my cabin. It was then that I started noticing the only negative thing about this cabin. Every wave we hit made the cabin vibrated slightly and lying in bed it was like the bed was resting on a pile of springs. It felt like I was bobbing up and down all the time. After sitting on the window sill for a while watching ships go by it was almost time to go to Langan's. Once again the service was excellent, the staff was polite and happy to help. I had the chicken liver paté (again) as a starter. It was well seasoned and the toast and sauce accompanied it perfectly. As a main I had the Casterbridge steak with peppercorn sauce, some chips, salad. The waiter said that tonight I would get some free vegetables (probably left over from the Four Seasons Buffet as it was already 21.15). The steak was tender and cooked to order, the sauce was good but not very peppery. The salad was fresh and the vegetables were good but they were a bit cold and I only got carrots and cauliflower. There were only a few people in the restaurant, next to me was a table of Belgians who asked for mayonaise for their chips (which is normal in Belgium). In fact most of the customers that evening were Belgian.

After I had finished my meal the waiter asked if I wanted a dessert. "No, thanks, I'm fine" to which he replied "Ah, the steak, that's normal, it's quite a big meal". I settled my debt and reserved for breakfast the next morning. Upon handing over my meal voucher the man at the till remarked 'oh, you have a very nice cabin, you are lucky' Click the image to open in full size. .
Then I went for a stroll on deck, by now the wind had picked up and there were some squally showers. Sea conditions were what we call whitecapping but the Bruges sailed on as steady as a rock. Feeling quite tired and not wanting to sit in the show lounge with over 200 school children I went back to my cabin. The motion that I described earlier had increased and an occasional thud was heard along with some squeaking metal sound. The noises reminded of the Pride of Dover/Calais.

I had an excellent shower, a far cry from what I have back home Click the image to open in full size. , and read the newspaper I had been given at the terminal for perhaps half an hour. I didn't bother with the single bunk bed and slept in the double. The airconditioning was at the coldest setting but still it was a bit too hot in my cabin but it didn't bother me too much. I always find it difficult to sleep the first night and as result I spent more time awake than asleep. This was not helped by the occasional bang which would always occur at the moment that I was almost fast asleep. From time to time I sat behind the window and with a brightly lit moon illuminating the sea it was quite a sight to behold. I thought to myself, this is the only form of transport that can offer this experience, priceless.

Click the image to open in full size.
Somewhere near Cromer probably, sorry for the blurry picture but I haven't mastered night photography yet

Eventually I fell asleep and woke up a 6-ish the following morning. We had probably just passed Spurn Head. I had a refreshing shower, it was necessary because I didn't feel particularly rested. I went outside to take some pictures and was greeted by a beautiful spring sunrise and a clear blue sky. It was a bit cold but the weather was gorgeous. In the distance I saw a white hulk with a red funnel, it was the new Stena Transporter. There were also quite a few tankers on the river at that time. I really wanted some pictures of the Stena Transporter but time was against me as I had reserved a table for breakfast at 7.00.

Click the image to open in full size. Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size. Click the image to open in full size.

I waited until we had passed her and quickly went to Langan's, it was almost 7.20 by that time. But to my surprise Langan's was almost deserted, perhaps 2 or 3 tables were occupied. This time it was the restaurant manager who was on duty and told me that keeping the 200+ kids entertained the previous evening had been a nightmare especially since they had different nationalities. As usual he was very friendly and I ordered the continental breakfast which consists of a small basket with a pain au chocolat, a croissant, a pain aux raisins and a bun. I only had the pain au chocolat and the toast because this type of breakfast is a bit too hearty and is quite unhealthy if you eat all of it. I enjoyed my cup of tea as we slowly made our way towards Hull. I didn't have to pay extra for my breakfast that morning, the voucher I had was sufficient. After that I went out for another stroll to watch arrival. We reversed into the lock which was unusual and again a first for me.

Click the image to open in full size. Click the image to open in full size.

I left all my luggage in my cabin but in hindsight I should have take along my camera to York. After disembarking and getting on the bus to York I could rest some more. This was still due to the lack of sleep of the previous night. In York I visited the National Railway Museum where there was an exhibition about Japan. It was very interesting and once again reaffirmed my believe that someday trains will make planes obsolete within Europe. Especially if you look at Japan who have experimental trains that go 585 km/h or 390 miles an hour. The musuem was very busy and it is obvious that Britons are very proud about their railway history, in sharp contrast to Belgium Click the image to open in full size. . For 2 quid I took a ride on a replica of the Stevenson's Rocket, which had carriages without seats.

I walked around town a bit and then went back to Leeman Road where the bus was going to pick us up. After everyone got onboard except 2 or 3 people who were too late and missed the bus, must be a nightmare when that happens Click the image to open in full size. . Upon arrival at Hull it was clear that once again we were the last to board. I went to my cabin and had a shower and then back outside. We left more or less on time. Once again there a coach with french school children onboard.

Click the image to open in full size. Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size. Click the image to open in full size.

The captain squeezed the Bruges through the narrow lock, which is still a huge attraction amongst passengers even those who have seen it several times. The weather for the return crossing would be a W'erly Force 4-5 with slight/moderate seas. When we left Hull there was still a blustery wind but by the time we reached Spurn Head the wind had just gone. But back to the onboard experience. Once again I had reserved a table at Langan's and the restaurant manager appeared to be quite pleased to see me again, perhaps it was the tip that I had given Click the image to open in full size. . I wanted to eat a bit earlier this time so that I could see Spurn Head. By the time that we passed the Humber Sea Terminal it was time to have dinner. Both Cobelfret's Pauline and Stena Line's Stena Transporter were at their berths and it was a good chance to compare them.

Click the image to open in full size. Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size. Click the image to open in full size.

The staff was again extremely polite and even friendlier than last time. There were parents with their kid at a table next to the window and one of the crew even stopped to listen what the kid had say about the food. I ordered the .... you can guess what as a starter (it starts with a c). Followed by the chicken breast which was small but very tender and juicy but sadly without free veggies today. The table in front of me was occupied by Belgians, of whom the eldest gentleman kept rambling on about Cobelfret and how the Palatine (or one of her sisters) would be beaten by the Pride of Bruges, quite useless I thought, as those ships sail to Rotterdam Click the image to open in full size.

After dinner I went outside to take some more pictures as we neared Spurn Head. The wind had gone and the seas looked calm which gave way to a good night sleep. Trekking around York for hours is very exhausting and having a slight headache, the prospect of a shower and some proper sleep had more appeal than the show lounge. Although I would have loved to see the entertainment but apparently it was quite good.

I fell asleep quite quickly and woke up the next morning at around 6.00 local time. Goody, a full hour before breakfast, so I went out on deck and found only 1 or 2 other people who were already up and about. The reward for getting up so early was being treated to a beautiful sunrise at sea. We were in the vicinity of the Thorton bank where a wind farm had been installed but with the light winds not many were turning. Despite the beauty of this sunrise, it was sad to realise that my time on this North Sea veteran was again coming to an end.

Click the image to open in full size.
The sun starts her day shift as she emerges from the North Sea

Click the image to open in full size.
Pride of Bruges 'speeding' towards Zeebrugge

Then it was time for breakfast. I had the traditional english breakfast but just bacon, eggs and sausage along with a lot of toast. I spent an hour and a half at Langan's enjoying the sea view and slowly the flats along the Belgian coast came into view Click the image to open in full size. .Disembarkation was swift and soon I looked back at the Pride of Bruges, sad that it was all over so soon. She is a fine cruise ferry, sadly her type is becoming rare. I have nothing but compliments for her crew who make you feel right at home.
The trip had been very enjoyable and remains a firm favorite of mine and many others I believe.

But with both ships now at the end of their lifespan in our part of the world one wonders what will happen to this route. It will all depend on how the freight market on the North Sea is within 5 years and this is impossible to say at this point. One can only hope that the route won't suffer the same fate as the Porstmouth-Bilbao route. Remembering the fact that losing this route would mean the end of passenger ferry services to Northern England from Belgium which would be very, very sad indeed.